Puppy Playbook | Signature Paws

The Puppy Playbook

There are many of moving parts in properly preparing for a litter of puppies. We take a lot of pride in the work that goes into our puppies in those crucial first days. Below we give a glimpse behind the curtain in delivering your newest family member.

“There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face”

Bernard Williams -

What to Expect … At the Nursery

Weeks before the puppies are born, I begin preparing for the birth by setting up the whelping box in my kitchen. When puppies are imminent, I encourage the Mom to sleep in the box. I usually sleep on the floor next to her until the puppies are born so I can monitor her throughout the night.

When the puppies are born, I weigh each one and record their weight. The day the pups are born, we begin to handle and talk to each puppy. I carefully monitor the puppies daily and record their weight and food intake. Their dew claws are removed on third day. Then on the fourth day, we begin to handle the puppies daily to promote their physical and social development.

At three weeks of age, they are introduced to gruel. It's an intermediate food for puppies in between Mom's milk and dry puppy kibble. It's both soft and warm, which makes it appealing and easy to eat.

They are wormed around 4 weeks, and again just before 6 weeks. The first vaccinations are given AFTER 6 weeks of age, when they will also have their second visit to the vet before going home at 8 weeks.

Around five weeks, depending on the development of the puppies and the weather, they are introduced to the outside. The social interaction of the Mom and litter-mates is very important. From regular handling to household noises to new friends coming over, our puppies experience new situations, sounds, and sights fairly regularly. We allow the puppies to explore for themselves, but also give them opportunities to check out new sights, textures, and sounds.

At eight weeks, our beloved Berner pups go to their adoptive families with a bag of food, chew toy, stuffed toy or blanket with litter-mates and Mom’s scent, and AKC registration paperwork. I expect updates and pictures of your baby Berner.

“Whoever said you can't buy happiness forgot about little puppies”

Gene Hill -

The first few weeks your Berner is with you will be busy and demanding. There may be times when you wonder if getting a new addition to the family was such a good idea. Hang in there! I promise it’ll get better. Just be patient and most of all don’t lose your sense of humor.

What to Expect ... At Home

Puppy proofing: Puppies are like toddlers: curious, lively, and small. They will wander and get into mischief, so be sure to supervise! They love tissues and toilet paper! Just a reminder: unplug, remover, or cover electrical cords; securely store cleaning supplies- detergents, bleach, paint, fertilizer, mothballs, antifreeze, etc; remove houseplants; keep craft supplies and children’s toys out of their reach.

The Condo: A puppy needs a place to call “home” too! Think of the crate as their a “crib.” How much time does a baby spend in it? They spend a lot at first, but less as they grow. Once a puppy reaches adulthood, I prefer wire crate. You will need several crates for your Berner by the time it reaches adulthood.

Leash and Collar: I prefer a nylon martingale collar, and a leather lead.

Water and Food Dishes: I prefer ceramic or metal bowls, because they are easier to clean and more importantly do not harbor bacteria.

Toys & Chews: Just like toddlers, puppies probe everything for chewability and edibility. Potentially harmful objects need to be kept out of their reach at all times. Kong toys and bully sticks are some of my favorite toys and chews. By the way, plastic water bottles make excellent crinkle toys. The best toys are those that keep your pet’s brain occupied. No toy, can replace time you spend with your fur baby.

Bedtime: Ideally, your new puppy should sleep near his/her “new family” at bedtime. You are now his/her new family or “pack.” Your puppy wants to be with you whenever possible. He or she may whine or even howl the first few nights, but he’ll feel a lot safer with you than in another room. If that’s not an option, then crate him/her play soft music, leave a ticking clock, and a warm water bottle under their bedding to sooth your new puppy.

Potty Training: Begin immediately, but don’t expect 100% success. From my experience, puppies tend to do great at first then backslide some. Praise and consistency are key! Keep your puppy crated when you are unable to watch him/her. As a last resort try the following: get a newspaper, roll it up tightly, secure it with a rubber band, and place it on the coffee table; when your puppy piddles in the house, chews a shoe, shreds tissues, or anything else naughty, take the newspaper and bang it on the top of YOUR head while repeating, “I should have been watching my puppy more closely!”

Teething: From about 4 months to 7 months of age most Bernese will lose their puppy teeth. Don’t be alarmed if you find a tooth! Giving him/her an ice cube or baby carrot may help.

Micro-chipping: To me, the decision whether to microchip your dog is an easy one. You should microchip your dog as soon as possible, and you'll rest easier knowing that you will have a better chance at recovering them whether they are lost or stolen.

Vaccinations: I follow Dr. Jenn Dodds Recommended Vaccination Schedule, and do not give Bordetella, Leptospirosis, or Lyme vaccines unless these diseases are endemic your area. For more information visit Animal Health Foundation Blog.

Heart-Worm: Heart-worm Prevention is a necessity. Heart-worm prevention for dogs is an important concern for every pet owner. Prevention is an important part of providing essential care, and heart-worm disease prevention for dogs is something every owner can do. Consider this:

Dogs have been diagnosed with heart-worm disease in every state in the U.S.
Heart-worms are spread by mosquitoes, so any area of the country that has mosquitoes—even just a few of them—can also have heart-worm disease.
Dogs don’t just need prevention during warm-weather months. Heart-worm preventives work by treating heart-worms that already infected the pet within the past month or longer; meanwhile, preventives need to be given on time, every time to be effective. That’s why the American Heart-worm Society recommends year-round heart-worm prevention for pets.
The American Heart-worm Society estimates that more than a million dogs in the U.S. have heart-worm disease—and heart-worm disease can be fatal.

Heart-worm preventives come in different forms, including monthly chewable pills and topical “spot on” medications, as well as an injectable medication that is given every 6 or 12 months. Heart-worm preventives are available only by prescription from veterinarians.

Flea & Tick Protection: Flea and tick prevention is a must. Both fleas and ticks can make your fur baby sick. Dogs can get Lyme and other tick-borne diseases that can give them fevers, swollen joints and even kidney disease. Dogs also can get skin allergies from flea saliva, as well as tapeworms and anemia from the bites. OK, we’re all in agreement that fleas and ticks are just plain bad news.

Flea and tick prevention for dogs is the best way to go. Depending on the type you use, tick and flea medication for dogs can kill existing creepy crawlies and stop these pests from latching on in the first place. Luckily, there’s a wide range available, from over-the-counter methods to prescription-only options that require a visit to the vet. I prefer the pill, because I have found the topical not effective especially since I live in the deep south.

Nail Trimming: As a rule of thumb, a dog’s nails should be trimmed when they just about touch the ground when he or she walks. If your pet’s nails are clicking or getting snagged on the floor, it’s time for a trim. For leisurely living dogs, this might mean weekly pedicures, while urban pooches who stalk rough city sidewalks can go longer between clippings. I use a Dremel, because I’m less likely to quick them.

Things Puppies Should Avoid: Almonds, Avocados, Cherries, Chocolate, Grapes and Raisins, Macadamia Nuts, Mushrooms, Onions, Chives, Raw Garlic, Leeks, and Tomatoes